How to hide a drilled well pipe

I have come to accept the real me. I have come to love the real me. I now celebrate the real me. – Charice Pempengco 

Lilies, shasta daisies, poppies, gentian, bleeding heart, hosta, anemone,
sweet peas ...all rescued from the digger.

That quote holds a lot of significance for me. There are some things we all have to accept and build from there. It's like Don Quixote trying to joust with a windmill. It ain't gonna happen.

It also has the word “celebrate” in it, which makes sense to use as an intro because I’m going to talk about something no one thinks to celebrate. I wish I had seen this post before I wrote it. That doesn’t make a lot of sense, does it.

What I mean is I wish that the info in this post was available to us when I went looking for solutions to a un-celebratory property problem: the drilled well pipe. You know, the pipe that sticks at least 18” out of the ground after you water well has been put in.

A lot of people want solutions to hide it. Luckily, after a well is drilled, the ground for yards around is fair game. It’s obliterated. Unluckily for us we had to run our pipe to the house right.through.our.flower.bed. Yup. Half of it – gone. 

And we only had recused it from the weeds this year. Sigh...

If you go looking for solutions to hide this metal and plastic monstrosity you don’t find much that’s – shall we say – classy. There’s hollow windmills to put over it, or fake wishing wells, or even hollow fake plastic rocks. Shudder.

10 feet at the widest point.

You have to be careful what you do to it because you can’t just bury it. And whatever you do has to have ready access or can be easily removed. It has to be available for servicing if the pump ever needs replacing.

So what do you do? Well fear not. Here’s a solution that not only hides the blasted thing but also makes it a feature. If you have a pimple, put some eyeliner on it and make it a beauty mark.

Our solution? Make a low rock wall around it, fill it with dirt and plant it. Its a simple as that. It won’t hide it four-seasons if you’re in our climate, but it will for the length of time you constantly use your yard. It also serves as a "distraction," giving you something else to look at.

Fo ours, I made a nautilus shaped spiral out of “found” rock about 10-12 inches high with the dirt a few inches lower inside. There’s still plenty of pipe above ground. Over the pipe I put a metal garden trellis where I have planted perennial sweet peas. So not only will the pipe be covered, but it will be in full flower.

You don’t have to make a spiral. Make a circle, oval or square, or whatever shape you want. Tie the rock into something existing. The point is to have plants growing up around it to make it less noticeable.

This is the sunny side. I moved five lavenders to a position against it.

Interestingly, this little structure also creates a slight microclimate. So if you have any borderline zone plants tuck them up against the rocks where they’ll appreciate the shelter and extra heat. I moved out lavender to the sunny side of the wall.

The pictures of my creation are a little sad because the plants are what we salvaged before the well digger came in. They have been sitting in water for over a week. They needed planting. In a few days I expect to see either some life or new growth on many of them.

Cost? I scavenged the rock, the dirt was out back and the plants were saved. I tally that as 0 dollars. A little sweat equity, but not much.

So there’s my solution. Don’t hide it. Celebrate it. It's better than trying to fight something you can't.

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Gardening: When water retention isn’t a bad thing. And how to make a rain gauge.

Let there be work, bread, water and salt for all. – Nelson Mandela

Photo: Andrew Rollinger, Flickr ccl

Water—that commodity upon which the foundation of all life on earth rests. In recent years we have been warned of a looming water crisis. Large scale impact on the issue is best dealt with by national and international policies. But that does not mean individuals can have no impact. There are micro ways to better manage our water consumption, and one of them is if we garden. A small thing yes, but as water drops can form an ocean, every little bit counts. 

Water management will benefit not only your gardens but you. You can significantly reduce the amount of time you spend working in, as opposed to enjoying, your gardens. Gardens need a constant source of moisture to flourish, so can contribute greatly to our overall water use. All that watering not only uses a precious resource but also uses your time.

Halifax Public Gardens. Photo: ndh, Flickr ccl

What do I mean by garden water management?

What I refer to is water retention in your soil. If you have proper water retention, your plants will have more nutrients available from the water and you will use less water for the same amount of benefit.

By ensuring optimal water retention in your soil you will benefit the plants and also reduce your need to artificially irrigate your gardens (drip hose, spray, etc.). You get the same garden results with less water use.

What is water retention in gardens?

Water retention is the rate that your garden soil retains/looses moisture after becoming wet. If you have too little water your plants will either wilt or grow stunted; if you have too much water roots are more susceptible to rot. You need optimal mixture of drainage and moisture retentive material to have maximum benefit from whatever water your garden receives.

Halifax Public Gardens Bandstand.
Photo: Kelly Mercer Collection, Flickr ccl

How to check for water retention

You need to find out how fast your soil drains after rainfall/watering, and amend as necessary. 

To check retention water a portion of your garden thoroughly. After 2 days, dig a 6” deep hole and check the soil. If your soil is somewhat damp at the bottom of the hole your soil is reasonably water retentive. 

If it is dry, you may need to work organic matter into your soil. Organic matter (dead leaves, compost, etc) retains water when it is suspended throughout your soil. 

If it is wet, your soil may need a lower ratio of organics to drainage material. Drainage material, such as sand or very fine stone, allows water to leech away and the ground to dry out more quickly.

The majority garden plants require a constant state of some level of moisture for optimal growth.

Different plants have different water needs

Uniform water retention is not necessarily a good thing. Plants require different moisture levels as much as they need different amounts of light.

Some perennials thrive in moist soils; other detest it. Delphiniums, jack in the pulpit, astilbes, Japanese primroses, lupins, ferns, sambucus and monkshood all benefit from high moisture retentive soil.

Drought tolerant perennials prefer to dry out between waterings. These include salvia, lavender, Russian sage, lewisia, thyme, potentilla, phlox and many more.

As always, when purchasing or planting from seed check the characteristics your plants need for optimal growth. Then plant in a suitable site with suitable soil. Every garden has varying soils, unless you had all your ground trucked in.

Homemade and purchased water
gauges. Photo: mulsanne, Flickr ccl

Make a Rain Gauge 

Remember, Mother Nature tends your garden too. Track how she is doing with a rain gauge. Be more aware of the rainfall in your garden. It may be completely unnecessary for you to water your garden.

Either purchase, or make, a rain gauge. Making a rain gauge is actually quite easy. Install it (purchased or not) in the open where it won’t be affected by runoff from overhanging plants or structures. 

You will need a ruler, a straight sided clear jar or plastic bottle, something to make it stable (either a block of wood, rocks or a stake in the ground) and some rain.

1. Make sure your rain receptacle has straight sides. If the top curves in the measurement won't be accurate.

2. Set your measurements on the receptacle. Attach a ruler to the jar so you can measure the amount of rail collected. Alternatively, you can draw measurements right on the jar with a permanent marker.

3. Make the rain gauge stable. Depending on your chosen jar, attach in an appropriate way to make it stable. If it's plastic you can screw or nail it to a post; if glass glue it to a block of wood or similar to prevent it from falling over, or it could be wired to a post or stake. Use your imagination, just as long as it won't fall over.

4. Wait for rain, and then write down the rain amount in a journal.

You can track per rainfall, or week, or longer simply by writing down the measure of rainfall. As I said above, you can draw your marks directly ON the rainfall “catcher” if you don’t want to use a ruler. But your hand drawn divisions won’t be quite as accurate. 

I would suggest getting a 6” plastic ruler from a discount store. You could also get a more stylish container than a jar or pop bottle, as long as it has straight sides and can be attached securely to something so it won't tip over.

Note: The photo above shows a pop bottle with rocks in the bottom and the zero mark starting above them. I highly doubt the accuracy of that method as the rain would have to fill the spaces between the stones before making its way up the gauge. You could fill with sand, but it would have to be packed pretty tight to avoid rain from seeping in. Or before you expect rain fill the bottle up to zero mark with water. Who wants to do that?

There are ways to accurately use this method, though a little complicated. For example, pour 1" of water in the bottom before putting in the rocks or sand, measure where the level is after adding the rocks or sand, mark that point as 1" and  start your further measurement divisions from that point up.

One final note about watering

Never water your garden from above at any time of day. Overhead watering wastes water and encourages the spread of plant diseases on upper portions of plants or on their neighbours. 

A common myth is that water droplets can harm leaves by acting like mini magnifying glasses and cause burning. This myth has been around since the mid 1950s. Studies have found that the water droplets evaporate long before being able to generate enough heat to damage plant leaves.

This myth really doesn’t make any sense. Think of a gentle June rain shower, followed by the sun bursting through the clouds. If nature allows it, and plants are still surviving, it can’t be true. But it's been around for decades.

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Gardening: How to make a sundial. A project for a sunny day! (or not…)

A day without sunshine is like, you know, night. – Steve Martin

A stone sundial using a rod as a "gnomen."

I've decided on one of my first garden projects after Spring yard clean-up is over. It will give me years of enjoyment and use. I’m going to make a sundial. It’s actually not that difficult and can be a beautiful addition for your garden.

You can even use a person to cast
the shadow!

I haven’t quite decided if it will be mounted on a large granite rock (a nice garden feature) or flat stones embedded in the lawn (still a feature, and easier to cut the grass over top…). 

You can use anything weatherproof for the dial face (stone, metal, wood) that you can mark on. Ensure your sundial is installed in a shadeless spot or some hours it won't cast a shadow. It can be mounted to stone, a plinth, a wooden stake—you name it, as long as it's sturdy and unmoveable.

You can even make a sundial that uses your body to cast the time shadow and stones in the lawn for the hour markers (at left). Grooooovy!

Sundials have been around since ancient times, most probably due to the discovery that the shadow of an upright stick tracked with the sun as the day progressed. It was the beginnings of measured time.

As time was subdivided into hours and then minutes, the dial divisions became finer and one could, depending on knowing their latitude, be fairly certain what hour and minutes of the day it was where they were. Latitude is an angle measured in degrees (°), marked by horizontal imaginary bands that run parallel to the equator and end at the north and south poles. 

The gnomen on this bronze dial is
a traditional shape.

The equator is 0°, the poles 90°. Halifax sits at 44° 39'. Stewiacke, Nova Scotia is 45°, exactly midway between the equator and the north pole.

It's actually not difficult to create a sundial. There are two basic methods. One is easy but takes a day; the other is faster but requires a protractor, or print out the one I have supplied at the bottom of this post.

You also need a flat surface to mark out your hours, and a vertical upright gnomen (hand) to cast the shadow. The gnomen can be any shape as long as it casts a straight narrow shadow that reaches your hour marks clearly. It's most usually a decoratively cut triangle. It can also be a rod like the image at the start of this post.

Securely connect the gnomon to the dial face at dead centre. The angle of the gnomon relative to the face of the disk should equal your latitude. (Halifax 44° 39', or as close as you can get.) 

There is a link below that will give you the latitude of where you live anywhere on Earth for your specific angle. Use a protractor to ensure the gnomon is cut, or mounted, at the correct angle. (See the bronze dial picture for a clearer understanding).

This is the resulting chart for Halifax from
link no. 2. Any city can be done using both
links. Click to enlarge.

The simple, yet slow way:

If using a face with mounted gnomen (instead of a lawn sundial), angle it to your latitude (i.e., Halifax is 44° 39'). Whatever style of sundial you're making, the initial shadow cast "hour" has to agree with whatever's on your (correct) watch. For example, if you start marking at 9am, then that's where you mark the 9am shadow on your dial. 

Mark where the shadow is every hour. Remember to keep the sundial and gnomen stationery—facing the exact same direction—so the hour marks will be accurate. Any early hours can be calculated by mirroring where they fall in the afternoon/evening. 8am is like 4pm, 7am is like 5pm, etc.

The hard(er) way, although not too hard:

This one allows you to make a sundial regardless if it's sunny outside or not, because you can do it inside! You need a protractor, which I have supplied as a paper printout at the bottom of this post. First you need to find out where you are on the face of the Earth, then what degrees designate the correct hours. There's two sites to help you get the exact data you need. Both are completely free.

1. Find your latitude (or that of a close metropolitan area) at:

http://www.infoplease.com/atlas/latitude-longitude.html

This gives you the information (in degrees, hour and minutes) of where you are. You then take that information to the next site to get a chart which lists the degrees (on a protractor) where you need to make your marks on the sundial face. Easy, right?

2. Find out your hour degrees to mark the sundial face:

http://www.anycalculator.com/horizontalsundial.htm

Take your latitude from the first link and enter it at the link above. A chart like the yellow one you see will be automatically generated for you. This gives the degrees that you need to mark on the sundial face.

As above, insert your gnomen in the centre of the dial and angle it so that it reflects your longitude (i.e., Halifax 44° 39'). Simply mark the degrees from 0° in both directions according to the degrees you have been given in the chart.

Take your sundial outside and point the gnomon on your dial due north. Get out your compass. You may think you know but you're probably wrong. I was. The resulting shadow will fall along the appropriate hour line.

I drew this protractor so you can save and print it. Click to enlarge and then right click
to save it to your desktop. It's 150 dpi at about 7" (18 cm) wide.

One note, because you can't force people to bend at the correct latitude angle for the lawn variety of sundial, it will be slightly less accurate. Or can you…

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Object of Lust 7: DIY Butcher Block Harvest Table

Their kitchen is their shrine, the cook their priest, the table their altar, and their belly their god. – Charles Buck

Butcher Block from Lumber Liquidators, Maine

This post verges on Objects of Necessity as well. Butcher Block is one of the must-have surfaces in any good kitchen.

When we updated our kitchen several years ago we decided to put in maple butcher block counter tops. We went to one of the kitchen cabinet stores in Halifax. 

We wanted one piece 8' long and counter width. We almost fell over when we were quoted (not installed - just for the wood) $1600.00!!! Apparently that's normal. I can tell you they did not get our custom on that day.

Being a bit of a DIY'er I set forth to hunt down how much butcher block actually cost; if not to buy, to prove that kitchen stores are ripping all of us off.

I found exactly what I wanted and at close to 1/6th (yes, that's one sixth) of the cost we were quoted in Halifax. It was from Lumber Liquidators in Maine, and they ship to Canada. Even with Day & Ross trucking and brokerage it didn't cost $600. 

I was told by the very helpful representative that it was unfinished and would need to have that done. No prob, I thought. I have a sander. When it got here we didn't even have to do much of that. A light go-over with 120 and then 220 grit, and we were varnishing. I've rarely been more pleased with a purchase in my life.

So what else can benefit from a cheap piece of Butcher Block? How about making your own Harvest Table. It's easier than you think. A harvest table can be the heart of your kitchen, the place where friends gather and good times and memories are created. Purchasing one would be a memory as well; a bad one. The two images below are about as picture perfect as you can get. They will set you back a pretty sum.

Nice tables. Bad price.

How would you like to know how to make your own Butcher Block Harvest Table, for way less than $750?

Stick with me. We'll go far. Follow my plans and you and yours will be gathered around your own butcher block harvest table before you know it. Except for the painting, this is a one day project. The only "specialty" tool you need is a router. Borrow your friend's...

As always spend any money you may have saved on good food, good wine, and good friends!

Cutting the legs.
Click to enlarge.

1. Purchase your butcher block

Here's 2 locations for you. Both in the States, but both ship to Canada:

Lumber Liquidators
Brewer, Maine USA

1-1/2" thick x 25" x 8 lft Maple Unfinished Butcher Block Countertop

* this is counter width so will make a skinny table. They may have wider, or see below.

$259.00 US, plus shipping (which will double it)

http://www.lumberliquidators.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=1472

Grizzly Industrial, Inc.

Muncy, Pennsylvania USA

T21250 Maple Butcher Block - 72" x 30" x 2-1/4"

* this makes a wider but shorter table. This seller does have 8' long x 30" wide for $499.00 which is still a deal.

$385.00 + Shipping to Canada

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Maple-Butcher-Block-72-x-30-x-2-1-4-/T21250

2. Purchase legs and skirt wood locally at Kent Building Supplies

Use Deck Posts for legs

4x4 Deck Post (pressure treated, but you'll paint the bottom anyway) $21.67 each (total $86.68)

http://www.kent.ca/kbs/en/product.jsp?prdId=1032110&skuId=1032110&catalogId=1397

Wood for side skirts between legs

2 pieces 1" x 5" x 8' Clear Pine $13.09 each (total $26.18)

1 piece 1" x 5" x 6' Clear Pine $9.79

http://www.kent.ca/kbs/en/product.jsp?prdId=158CSP&catalogId=54&skuId=156CSP

"L" brackets to join base and table

10 pieces 1 1/2" metal angle

$0.69 each (total  $6.90)

http://www.kent.ca/kbs/en/product.jsp?prdId=5661057&skuId=5661057&catalogId=384

Plus 40 screws, get them  from your stash in the shed.

3. How to Make the Table

A table is very simple to make. Click to enlarge,

First step is to trim your deck posts to the proper length. (see image above) Usual table height is 30 inches. Subtract the thickness of your block top. That is your leg height.

Trim the post to the proper length taking care to leave enough room on the top for your skirt wood to slot in. Try to cut the post at an "attractive" place for a table leg. The post in the diagram works quite well.

Next cut slots on two adjacent sides of each post 3/4" wide x 4.5" high and 1" deep, minimum. This is for insetting your side skirt pieces. Although you purchased pine skirt wood that was called 1x5, it's actually 0.75 x 4.5. You'll have to finish the holes with chisels to square them up.

Mark out on the underside of your butcher block where you wish the legs and shirt to sit. From this measure out your side and end skirt lengths. Keep in mind the posts have to fit UNDER the table top and there's usually an overhang on a table top. Cut two sides the same length and two ends the same length.

Slot the 1x5 into the routed table legs and attach through with screws. Do it from the back so the heads do not show. You could get fancy and drill through and peg. Whatever you wish to do. Just make sure it's secure.

You may wish to reinforce each corner with a block so it doesn't warp, but once it's mounted to the butcher block I doubt there's much possibility of that.

Sand and coat the butcher block. There are high gloss products that are food safe or seal it with another type of food safe finish. Remember, it's no good to put on high gloss and then cut on it.

Sand, prime and put multiple coats of paint on the base before attaching it. I would suggest 4 coats. That way it starts life well protected and you won't have to worry about painting again for a while. Remember to use a washable paint.

Invert the table onto the butcher block's underside. Using the metal "L" brackets, securely attach the legs and skirt to the table top. By using 10 brackets you have 2 to secure each end and 3 on each side.

Flip the table over, pull up a chair, and relax. Of course feel free to use other surfaces for the table top if you wish. Just not laminate. Or I will have to find you.

Can you imagine, we now all have places to put our Bigolaro pasta extruders!!!

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Gardening: Erect a little wood in your garden

How to make a decorative support for climbers
So this post may actually be "news you can use," so to speak. It's actually a get your hands dirty "how to", not only for your garden, but also a "how to" keep money in your pocket.

Last year we erected two supports for grapes. They're sort of summertime privacy "fencing", and also look very nice when the leaves are gone. They add to the "bones" which keep your garden looking nice in the non-growing months. Purchasing these structure would cost upwards of $200. Materials, way less that $100. Sweat equity: priceless.

Click on the image for a printable version. It has materials listed on the right.

The design of these echoes elements of an arbor entrance we also built, and the top of a summer porch. The porch will have wisteria flowers hanging down through it — eventually...

The design and plan above is a freebie from me to you. Use it "as is", or as an inspiration for designing and making your own. They're not rocket science. They just take a little time. You can probably make one, from start to standing in the ground, in about 3 hours. That includes all fabrication, digging holes, mixing cement, and standing up.

The 2x2 pieces which make up the centre of the structure are not cut from their purchased 8' length. That speeds fabrication up greatly. All you have to do is make sure that the inside space between your 4x4 uprights is also 8", or they won't fit.

If there is ONE secret, it's to assemble with screws as opposed to nails. If you use screws, any breakage or rot can be replaced far more easily. Nails are far harder to deal with down the road.

The columnar oaks were there first. They face relocation come Spring.

So the above image shows them "in situ". They still have their side supports because the cement was just poured. They are free standing. In our case, we have planted pinot noir grapes at their base. I fully expect in two years they will be covered with grape leaves which will help screen us from our neighbours. The pinot noir grapes will be a bonus. We don't expect to make wine...probably.

More arbors will be coming, in pairs. We already have two chardonnay vines waiting for supports in the Spring. The garden is actually quickly taking shape with these additions. I will be posting plans for the walk through arbor later. It was easy to make as well.

Remember, treated wood will last longer. Plans and materials list is for one support.

One final word: we used 8' uprights, which meant that 1-1/2 feet goes into the ground. Our frostline is 3 feet, so you may want to purchase 10' 4x4, just to be safe. We like to live on the edge.

Enjoy!

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Gardening: Wrought Iron Fencing

Beautiful edging for your garden

I bought some of this fencing several years ago, and was glad to find it is still available. I believe I purchased it from frontgate.com in packages of four. They no longer carry it but I found it at the link at the bottom of this post.

From the site description: "The beautiful design features an intricate vine and leaf pattern, looping and arcing through itself. An eyelet opening on one side of the border allows it to interlock with another piece, helping to secure the units in the ground. Use a single one of these 24.5 long sections as an accent piece, or link multiple units together to form an elegant border to your yard or garden. String these panels together in straight lines, or align them in right angles to create corners. The forged iron construction is sealed in a black powder coat for resilience and durability. Add a touch of esteemed beauty to your yard with Scroll Fence Sections."

The ones I purchased were constructed very well. They've weathered at least 7 winters outside and still look every bit as good as when they were first purchased.


Each section is $26.75, before shipping. They state shipping cost as $9.95, but I assume that is to US addresses.

http://www.unbeatablesales.com/achl2088.html?mr:referralID=0e6a7522-1c11-11e0-af68-001b2166becc

Design: Objects of Lust - Something Old and Something New

There's good design and bad design from every era. Anyone who says otherwise is a fool.

First up: Armadillo Bread Bin

This is the most fantastic looking bread bin I have ever laid eyes on. It's for the bread you plan to make in the future. Certainly not today's. This little beauty is available online from a few UK sites, and yes, it's a bit pricey: £67.40 (£56.17 excl. VAT) but don't you think it's worth it? Just LOOK at it. Sex-y. It's made of beech wood and brushed aluminum. Dimensions are  44 x 28 x 30 cm (17.5 x 11 x 12 inches).

By the way, the exchange rate of Canadian Dollars against British Pounds Stirling is the best its been in quite some time. At time of posting, 1 Pound Stirling is 1.56 Canadian, which makes the bread bin $87 + delivery. Take a look in your local stores and see what they try to peddle you. Bad design, or worse in my books, ORDINARY design. Bad design goes away because it doesn't work. Ordinary design people put up with.


http://www.wheredidyoubuythat.com/armadillo_breadbin_best-seller


Next: For those who feel "to the Manor born" - Haddonstone

Haddonstone is a company that started (I believe) out of a need to restore mansions, manors and the like in the UK. To the general public they offer cast stone (composite) ornaments as well as some in other materials. I LOVE their outdoor urns. I've grabbed just a couple pictures from their site. You have to go to see what they do. It's amazing. They even tell you where the design comes from. "My urn is an exact replica of one at Snottington Hall. It was designed in 1743 by Sir Charles Uppercrust. What about yours?" That sounded a bit Hyacinth Bucket (pronounced boo-kay), didn't it? Seriously.

House of Dun Urn

Fish-scale and Reed Jardinere

They do exterior architectural entries, window surrounds, indoor fireplaces, urns, etc.

Go and see. They also do contemporary designs. I've known about them for several years, and in that time they have established two US locations, so shipping wouldn't be quite as bad as across the ocean from England. But of course, like everything in life you get what you pay for (that's code for they ain't cheap).

http://www.haddonstone.com/