Recipe: Italian Chicken Fricassee

The difference between ‘involvement‘ and ‘commitment‘ is like an eggs-and-ham breakfast: the chicken was ‘involved‘ – the pig was ‘committed’. – Unknown

Do you see white sauce here? I don't.

To fricassee or not to fricassee. That is the question. Is this fricassee or not? I though I knew for this so many years…

Cambridge Dictionary:

A dish made of pieces of meat, especially chicken or veal  cooked and served in a white sauce.

Wikipedia:

A catch-all term used to describe a stewed dish typically made with poultry, but other types of white meat can be substituted. It is cut into pieces and then stewed in gravy, which is then thickened with butter and cream or milk. It often includes other ingredients and vegetables. 

Docaitta:

This recipe? Maybe. Hopefully... Let's just say "yes."

I have been making this dish for decades. I was quite surprised to find out from none other than the venerable Cambridge Dictionary that fricassee had a white sauce.

This is most definitely not white. I would say it’s actually rather red… deep red.

San Marzano tomatoes. Photo: Wiki CC

Regardless, it is still a stewed (of a sort) dish that is served in a most delicious “gravy.” It’s been so long that I  really can’t remember where I got this recipe, but I do know my source called it fricassee. Perhaps the original was finished with some cream, and I conveniently forgot that step. 

Some whipping (heavy) cream stirred into the sauce at the end certainly wouldn’t do it any harm. (If you do add cream, I would suggest removing the chicken, adding about 1 cup of cream, and reducing the sauce somewhat to thicken it back up.)

Who know what else has changed from the original now that one thinks. But does it really matter? The main thing about food is that it should be nutritious and delicious. I believe this one fulfills in both categories.

So there you go.

“Fricasseeing” (or whatever we want to call this) makes the chicken very tender and almost fall-off-the-bone. Tomatoes are exceedingly good for you, as is vermouth – in small quantities. Ha ha.

Words to the wise: don’t "cheap out" on the tomatoes you purchase. Garbage in; garbage out. San Marzano Italian plum tomatoes are the best to use, and are considered by many chefs to be the best sauce tomatoes in the world. Second best, fresh plum tomatoes, or another kind of canned plum tomatoes. The flavour of this dish relies so heavily on the taste of the tomatoes that the small increase in cost is well justified.

This is a relatively quick dish to put together, coming in at about 40 minutes. And most of the time is sitting on the stove and stewing, so you can do other things.

That makes this dish a perfect weeknight dinner. Serve it with a side of rice (and a vegetable if you desire) and you’ll have a wonderful dinner in no time flat.

Italian Chicken Fricassee

Prep: 5 min  |  Cook: 35 min  |  Serves 3-4

6-8 chicken thighs, bone in and skin on

1 medium onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 rib of celery, chopped

1 lg can (796 ml) San Marzano tomatoes, diced

1/4 cup white vermouth

1 tsp basil

1 tsp oregano

1/2 tsp salt

1 tsp cracked black pepper

garnish: chopped green olives

Heat a wide sauté pan over high heat. Do not add any oil. Add the chicken thighs, skin side up, into the hot pan. Season with some salt and pepper.

Let cook until the meat releases naturally from the pan, about 5 minutes. Turn and repeat on the other side. Remove the chicken to a plate. It will not be cooked through.

Remove all the rendered chicken fat except for about 1 tablespoon. Add the onion, garlic and celery. Sauté until the onions soften and begin to brown, a further 5 minutes.

Add the vermouth to the pan to deglaze. Scrape the brown bits off the bottom of the pan. Add the tomatoes, basil and oregano and bring to a simmer.

Nestle the chicken into the liquid and partially cover. Let cook for about 20 minutes, until the sauce has reduced and thickened. Stir occasionally to prevent burning.

Taste for seasoning and adjust if necessary.

Serve with hot cooked rice. Sprinkle the top of the chicken with chopped olives.

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Recipes: Seafood Béchamel with Parmesan Rösti

A new idea is delicate. It can be killed by a sneer or a yawn; it can be stabbed to death by a quip and worried to death by a frown on the right man's brow. – Ovid

A nice little dinner, if I do say so myself.

Seafood is known for being delicate in flavour. Fried potatoes – not so much. This may not sound like a marriage made in heaven, but the the seafood and rösti do go together in a most wonderful way.

What is seafood béchamel?

Seafood béchamel is a delicate concoction of various seafoods that is baked in a creamy sauce. I gilded the lily by adding some parmesan.

Don’t let the term “béchamel” scare you off. If you can add flour to butter in a pot and thicken it with milk you can make a perfect béchamel. Béchamel is one of the 5 “mother” sauces of French cuisine we all should know. (see HERE)

To add a little more veg to the dinner I started off with a mirepoix. That's French cuisine-talk for  a vegetable flavour base usually consisting of celery, onions and carrots sautéed in butter (of course).

Things aren’t quite as daunting in the kitchen when they’re explained, are they?

Simplicity itself. Grated potatoes and onion, salt and pepper.

What on earth is rösti?

Rösti is a fantastic dish of German-Swiss origin. It’s essentially grated potatoes and onions that are pan fried in a little oil (or fat). Mmmmmm… This is an excellent variation on baked or boiled potatoes if you’re in need of a break from either.

Many ingredients can be added to the basic recipe, including bacon, cheese, apples, herbs, etc. Traditionally it is served in German-heritage Switzerland  as a breakfast accompaniment. Think of it as sort of “home fries.” It could be easily topped with a poached or fried egg.

Although usually fried, rösti can also be baked if you're worried about the extra fat or oil – but it's potatoes already so why worry... I usually pan fry it as one very large rösti but it also can be divided into individual portions before cooking. It's your choice.

If done properly rösti is a just-cooked, crusty, delicious, different accompaniment to your dinner. Because it’s essentially potatoes it can also stand up to much heartier fare than seafood. In fact, seafood is probably the last thing people would consider pairing it with.

But it works – and works well at that. I hope you enjoy!

The seafood is "just" cooked.

Seafood Béchamel*

Prep: 15 min  |  Bake 30 min  |  Serves 4-6

350 g haddock, cubed

454 g shrimp

Mirepoix:

1/4 cup butter

1 medium onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, chopped

250 g mushrooms, quartered

1 medium carrot, diced

1 stalk celery, dced

Béchamel from the mirepoix:

2 tbsp butter

1/4 cup flour

2 cups milk

3/4 tsp tarragon

1 tsp salt

1 tsp cracked black pepper

1/4 cup parmesan, grated

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Melt the butter in a sauté pan. 

Add the onion, garlic, mushrooms, carrot and celery. Sauté in the butter until the vegetables have softened. The mushrooms will absorb some of the butter.

Then add the additional butter and sprinkle with the flour. Mix well. Slowly pour in the milk, stirring to prevent lumps from forming. Stir in the tarragon, salt and pepper. Taste and adjust. If the sauce seems a little thick don't worry. Juice from the seafood will come out and thin it while baking.

Place the cubed fish and whole shrimp in an oven-proof dish. Pour the béchamel on top and then sprinkle with the parmesan cheese. Bake for 30 minutes until golden on top.

* Any combination of fresh seafood can be used including raw lobster, scallops, oysters, salmon, sole, tilapia, and so on. Just make sure the weight volume is the same as listed ion the recipe.

NIcely brown on both side. Cut into wedges to serve.

Parmesan Rösti

Prep: 10 min  |  Pan fry: 20 min  |  Serves 4-6

3 tbsp olive oil

2 large (or 4 medium) potatoes, about 4 cups grated

1 small onion, grated

1/2 cup grated parmesan

1 tbsp four

salt and cracked black pepper

Grate the potatoes and onion in a bowl. Squeeze out any excess moisture with your hands. Mix in the salt and pepper and parmesan.

Heat the oil in a frying pan on medium high. Press the potatoes into a flat round in the hot pan. Let cook until well browned on one side. Loosen underneath after a few minutes to prevent burning.

Then flip the rösti and cook on the alternate side. Add more oil if necessary. Cook each side for about 8-10 minutes, taking care not to burn the surface. You do want a nice from crust, though.

Serve a wedge of the rösti with the baked seafood on the side. Sprinkle with more parmesan if desired.

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Booze of the Week: Lemon Gin Liqueur

I believe that if life gives you lemons, you should make lemonade... And try to find somebody whose life has given them vodka, and have a party. – Ron White

Bottled and waiting for labels.

I had to get around to making this booze at some time I guess. Since deck parties will soon be in full swing, there's no time like the present.

Only some sugar, the lemon zest and flesh goes in the jar.
The white pith needs to be removed. It is very bitter.

It's the infamous lemon gin, friend to all teenage boys looking for some Friday night fun with their girlfriends (if you know what I mean).

Lemon gin has quite an urban legend reputation. I don’t mean to offend, but in North America it also goes by the name "panty remover.” 

It's no more alcoholic than any other similar booze. It may be due to the fact that it's extremely drinkable so very easy for someone to get tipsy quickly. The lemon kind of makes it taste like really good lemonade.

Well, regardless of any urban legends this liqueur should be in your arsenal – Friday nights or not. This liqueur will add strong lemon flavour to any fancy backyard drink. You can even branch out and try some concoctions of your own.

If you don’t like your friends you could even substitute it one-to-one in any cocktail that calls for lemon juice.

I did find a recipe for one intriguing drink that I'll be trying this summer. It's called a Basil Gin Smash. Apparently it was all the rage in Germany in the summer of 2008. It really sounds like it would be delicious.

Essentially it's a variation on a whiskey smash – lemons, mint and bourbon whisky. The differences are this uses gin, lemon and basil. Sounds intriguing, right? Here is a variation on the recipe, using my lemon gin liqueur instead of the lemon juice.

Basil Gin Smash. Photo: RichDelux, Flickr ccl

Docaitta Basil Smash (for 1 drink)

4 basil leaves

1 oz lemon gin liqueur

1 oz gin

ice

soda

Place the basil in a shaker. Pour the lemon gin over the top and "muddle" the leaves with the handle of a wooden spoon or similar. (Muddling is crushing the leaves to release their essential oils.)

Add the remaining regular gin and a little ice and shake well. Strain into an Old Fashioned glass filled with ice. Top with soda, garnish with a sprig of basil and enjoy!

The following recipe, as the title states, is for lemon gin liqueur. If you want to make just lemon gin leave out the last step of making the sugar syrup.

Lemon Gin Liqueur

Prep: 10 min  |  Steep: 2 weeks

375 ml gin

1/2 cup sugar

zest and flesh of 2 lemons, well scrubbed, white pith removed

sugar syrup:

1 cup sugar

1 cup water

Combine all in Mason jar and let sit for 2 weeks. Shake well every day for the first week to dissolve the sugar. At the end of the infusing period, strain through fine cotton cloth.

Combine the cup of sugar and water and bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes and then let cool. Combine the gin with the syrup, stir well and bottle.

Very pale yellow, but very lemony, and probably quite dangerous.

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Gardening: Springtime "Daisy," Leopard’s Bane

You can cut all the flowers but you cannot keep Spring from coming. – Pablo Neruda

Among the first "non-bulb" flowers of spring. Photo: Auntie P. Flickr ccl

There will be no leopards appearing in my backyard this spring. Of that I am certain. It’s because I have Leopard’s Bane blooming (That, and leopards in Nova Scotia would be a bit of a miracle…) But it’s good to be certain.

Photo: Scamperdale, Flickr ccl

Cultivation

Leopard’s Bane, Doronicum orientale, is a perennial yellow daisy-like plant. Depending on what zone it is grown in, it can have a blooming period anywhere from mid-spring through fall. Here it only blooms in spring.

Leopard’s Bane is hardy to Zone 4B to 8A, although I have seen posts by people who have successfully kept it alive in Zone 3. I would imagine with a little winter protection...

The flower stems on this cheery little plant can grow to heights of between 12-18” (30-45 cm). It prefers the sun, with some moisture, although will tolerate partial shade. The 2” wide blossoms appear on the tops of rigid stems. The insects love them. 

I have seen one very large bee checking out the few blossoms I have already. This is to the great consternation of Henry, our Bouvier, who – despite his size – is deathly afraid of all insects. Go figure…

A young Leopard's Bane in dappled shade. I wouldn't have planted
it in that exact spot. Photo: Team Tanenbaum, Flickr ccl

Leopard’s Bane has a long history of use in flowerbeds. Before that it was plentiful in the woodlands and meadows of Eurasia where it originates. There are thirty-five species of Doronicum, but only a few are available in garden centres. Those you can buy should be available now, or very soon, in our local gardening establishments.

Leopard’s Bane likes to stay where you put it, if its light and water conditions are met. It will spread if given the opportunity but  is not at all invasive. To really increase your plant numbers you have to dig it up and and divide it. Another good feature is that deer and other wildlife do not bother it because all parts of it are toxic. I wonder how animals knows what is poisonous and what isn’t?

After the plant blooms the leaves continue to grow. They can get fairly large and heart-shaped with sort of sawtooth edges. Leopard’s bane also prefers cool night temperatures. It grows best in rich, organic soil because of its shallow roots. The plants in my yard have been dwindling lately. I can guess the reason why.

Leopard’s Bane is an easy to grow perennial. So if you can give it fairly even moisture and some good amended soil you should have plants that you can enjoy for years to come.

Toxicity

One last point. Don’t confuse Leopard’s Bane with Arnica montana. Arnica is a homeopathic plant with many medicinal uses. All parts of Doronicum are poisonous. 

The confusion arises because of a few factors: the flowers are somewhat similar, and so are many of the common names. Arnica is also called leopard’s bane, or wolf’s bane, or many other names associated with Doronicum o. by many gardeners.

Photo: edgeplot, Flickr ccl

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Recipe: Smokin’ Jack Pork Ribs

The body is the soul's poor house or home, whose ribs the laths are and whose flesh the loam. – Robert Herrick 

Sweet, hot and tender. The three bean is a perfect flavour foil.

It’s kind of funny to be writing posts with summer in mind. When I made these ribs it was most un-summery here in Nova Scotia. 

But I want to give you (and me) options for when the weather actually does turn warm. That’s why I posted an excellent (a few of my co-workers’ description) three bean salad on April 27. It’s a staple for backyard gatherings.

Photo: Bryan Burke, Flickr ccl

So is barbecued ribs. That’s my rationale for this post, plus the fact I had a bit of a craving.

Sometimes I get a yen for Jack Daniels®. Not by the glassful, but just a taste. A good way to enjoy it (without possibility of a headache) is to use it in a barbecue sauce. It’s as though the stuff was made for it.

In case you’re not familiar with it, Jack Daniel's is a sour mash Tennessee whiskey that is reputed to be the best selling whiskey in the world. It has been produced in Lynchburg, Tennessee since 1875.

Although it has all the production hallmarks of a classic bourbon, Jack Daniel's goes one more step, filtering the whiskey through sugar maple charcoal prior to aging. That extra step gives it a unique, sweet taste. It’s perfect for barbecue sauces, as well as by the glass if you like.

I posted a recipe for a JD barbecue sauce last year, but of course I can never leave well enough alone. So here’s another one. It’s not a classic sticky sauce, but more of a glaze I suppose.

I do know that whatever it may be it’s very tasty. I combined the JD with honey and my own “smokin’ grill rub.” (HERE) If you make the hotter version it imparts a bit of a take-no-prisoners heat to the end product. 

Marinating the ribs in the "sauce” turned out to be a stroke of genius. Not only did it let the alcohol tenderize the meat, but some of the JD flavour also permeated inside.

Let marinate for 2 hours to tenderize.

Since the weather outside was frightful (and inside was so delightful…) I opted for baking the ribs. Baking took 50 minutes, which was just right, even for pieces as thin as ribs. They were still tender and juicy. Just make sure your ribs have some fat on them.

This recipe is a classic combination – sweet and heat. This glaze would be excellent on beef ribs as well. Maybe even better, not to denigrate this pork variety. It’s you choice.

If using an outdoor grill, I would suggest cooking the ribs with the lid closed over medium or indirect heat. This slow(er) cooking method lets the sauce caramelize on the ribs as you turn and baste.

You should all try these. They’re among the best ribs I’ve had in quite a while.

The foil makes clean-up happen in 5 seconds.

Smokin’ Jack Pork Ribs

Marinate: 2 hrs  |  Bake: 50 min  |  Serves 4

1/4 cup Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whisky

1/4 cup honey

1 tsp garlic powder

1 tsp onion powder

1 tsp salt

1 tbsp Smokin’ Grill Rub (from previous post HERE)

1/2 tsp cayenne

1 tsp cracked black pepper

2 lbs pork riblets*

Combine all ingredients except for the ribs in a small dish and mix well.

Place the pork ribs in a sealable bag. Pour the marinade over the ribs in the bag, seal and shake well to coat.

Let the meat marinade for 2 hours on the counter.

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the ribs from the marinade and arrange on a baking sheet lined with heavy foil. (Or place on a preheated outdoor grill.)

Reduce the marinade to a sauce and brush over the ribs. Bake the ribs in the oven for 50-60 minutes. Turn and baste every 15 minutes. You can also use the juice that has collected on the foil to help them brown.

Serve with dirty rice or potato salad, and three bean salad (recipe HERE).

* I used pork breast bones instead of actual ribs. They have a lot of meat and just enough fat to keep the meat tender during cooking.

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Foraging: Scout Camp Wild Strawberries & Pie

Doubtless God could have made a better berry, but doubtless God never did. – William Allen Butler

This is what I'll find in about 2 months. Photo: queteris, Flickr ccl

Henry, my Bouvier, and I were visiting in the country recently and decided to take a walk up to the lake. I suppose to be correct I should say “I decided” because he didn’t really have much choice in the destination. But he’s always glad to tag along.

This plaque used to be mounted above the fireplace.

Usually we walk up one particular side of the river to a small beach at the foot of the lake. This day I opted for the other side. I hadn’t been up there since Simon, my other Bouv, was alive.

There used to be an old Boy Scout camp located in a clearing almost directly across the lake from the beach. Some time in the past several years it was razed to the ground. All that’s left there now is bronze dedication plaque mounted on a stone with the date 1935.

It’s kind of sad. I have some strong memories of my 1960s childhood linked to that place. At one time it had a 8’ diving structure that many of the children of the village used in the heat of summer. We were only allowed on the property when the camp wasn’t being used by the Scouts. I remember being pushed off that on more than one occasion. 

The blossoms, open now.

I was short for my age (still am…), and since my mother was the local schoolteacher I was fair game for anyone to vent their frustration with her, against me. Any one else out there a teacher’s child? You know exactly what I mean.

I do have a fond memory or two, linked directly to Scouts. Fishing season always started on the local river April 1, so every March 31 our village Scout troop used to have a sleep-over at the camp. April 1 was our Fishing Derby. Brrr….

The building was split log construction with wooden shuttered windows and huge doors in the front that opened up probably at least 1/3 of the front facade. You stepped into an open space with a huge stone fireplace nearly on the far wall. Behind it was a small kitchen. It was exactly typical of what you would expect for a 1935 camp.

On the sleep-over night our troop – and a few brave fathers – would bring sleeping bags and pillows and settle in. I still remember the crackle and smell of the burning logs in that huge fireplace on those frosty nights. Once the fire was well underway we would eat hot dogs for dinner and well burnt marshmallows for dessert.

Small but wonderful. Photo: Murky1, Flickr ccl

Fishing the next day for me was rather anti-climactic. I seldom caught anything except the telephone lines. I just didn’t have the touch.

Well, the building and fireplace are gone, and all that remains is the plaque on the stone in the clearing. But one thing is usually substituted for another. Nothing stays the same, no matter how much we wish it would.

In this case exactly where the building stood I found a carpet of two culinary plants – wood violets and wild strawberries. I wrote about the violets yesterday. Today it’s the strawberries. I was amazed to see them in bloom so early.

Wild strawberry blossoms are a fantastic discovery, especially if there’s a patch. If you can find a place that will actually give you bang for your picking buck the site is well worth remembering. They won’t be ready for about 6 weeks, but if you spot them now you’ll know where to return.

This pie is about as old-fashioned as you can get.

Wild strawberries are relatives of the cultivated berries so prized every early summer. The difference is that they’re no bigger than the end of your little finger, if you’re lucky. That makes for tedious picking. 

But what they lack in size is more than made up for in taste. Wild strawberries are sweeter and, to my taste, more delicious than their larger cousins. They are usually found only in enough number to make for a pleasant hiking snack. 

So if you find a large patch like I did, remember it well. Also remember you’ll be in competition with the birds and animals for their sweet treasure.

Wild strawberries can be used measure for measure in any recipe that calls for cultivated strawberries. My only caution would be to watch the amount of sugar you use. As I said before, they are definitely sweeter than the cultivated berries. 

Here’s a recipe for you to try with either wild strawberries or store-purchased. This recipe is the same vintage as the old Scout Camp, about 1940.

Butter crust. It has to be pre-baked "blind" so make
sure you prick the bottom and sides well.

Old Fashioned Strawberry Cream Pie*

Time: 1-1/2 hours, includes making crust  |  Chill: at least 3 hours

9” flaky pastry pie shell, pre-baked and cooled

1/3 cup flour

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 tsp salt

2 cups whole milk

2 lg egg yolks

1 tbsp chilled butter

1 tsp vanilla

1 cup whipping cream, whipped

2 cups wild strawberries, washed and hulled*

Make the pie crust and let cool completely before filling.

Place the flour, sugar and salt in a heavy bottomed saucepan and mix well. Slowly whisk in 1 cup of the milk, making sue to keep the mixture smooth. Then add the remaining milk and whisk well.

The "cream."

Place the pot on the stove and bring to a boil. Let it cook, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens, about 5 minutes. Make sure none of the cream sticks to the bottom of the pan and scorches. If it does…start over. The cream will taste burnt.

Once the cream is thickened, remove from the heat. In a small bowl whisk 1/2 cup of the cream into the eggs to temper them. then our them back into the cream. Place back on the heat and cook for about 2 minutes.

Remove from the heat, stir in the butter and vanilla and let cool for 5 minutes. (This is an alternate direction: For a lighter pie, whip the heavy cream while the filling is cooling on the counter. Once the filling is cooled, fold in the whipped cream and proceed as directed below.) The usual way is to top the pie with whipped cream, but it's your choice if it's IN it or ON it.

Since it's April I had to use grocery store berries.
It was still great.

Pour half the filling into the prepared pastry shell. Arrange the 2 cups of berries evenly over the surface. Then cover with the remaining cream and let cool.  Then cover with the whipped cream if using the traditional method.

Let cool in the refrigerator until set, about 3 hours and then serve.

If desired, serve with more whipped cream, sweetened with a little sugar and flavoured with vanilla.

* This is also the basic recipe for banana cream and peach cream pie. Just substitute the same amount of those fruit for the strawberries. If using large berries, chop into small pieces and toss with 2 tsp fine sugar.

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